•  
  •  
 

Abstract

United Colors of Benetton, or UCB, has been using its advertisements to deliver positive messages and values that the clothing company represents. This article analyzes one of the photographs in Benetton’s campaign for their Spring Summer Collection of 2018. The campaign, which consists of some photographs by Oliviero Toscani, raises the theme of equality of gender and ethnicity. It shows various photographs of both female and male models from different ethnicities. However, it is found that there is one photograph that shows inconsistency with the very value that Benetton wants to convey through their campaign. Based on the semiotic analysis, the study shows that the photograph can be read as having an entirely different message that the company intends to voice. This article proves that multiple interpretations can be applied to a text, and a text can betray itself.

Bahasa Abstract

United Colors of Benetton atau UCB sejak lama menggunakan iklan-iklan mereka untuk menyampaikan pesan dan nilai-nilai positif yang didukung oleh perusahaan. Penelitian ini menganalisis salah satu foto dari iklan Benetton untuk koleksi musim panas dan musim semi 2018 mereka. Iklan untuk koleksi itu terdiri atas beberapa foto karya Oliviero Toscani yang menampilkan model laki-laki dan perempuan dari latar belakang etnis yang berbeda-beda dan mengusung tema kesetaraan gender dan ras. Dari analisis ini ditemukan satu foto yang justru menunjukkan pesan berbeda dari keinginan Benetton untuk menyampaikan pesan mereka melalui iklan. Dengan menggunakan pendekatan semiotik, ditemukan bahwa sebuah foto dapat diinterpretasikan dengan berbagai cara, bahkan mungkin bertolak belakang dengan maksud oleh pembuatnya. Dari penelitian ini dapat disimpulkan bahwa sebuah teks bisa memiliki multitafsir dan justru dapat mengkhianati pesan yang dikehendaki penggubahnya.

References

Antick, P. 2002. Bloody jumpers: Benetton and the mechanics of cultural exclusion. Fashion Theory 6, no. 1: 83–109. https://doi.org/10.2752/136270402778869118

Back, L., & Quaade, V. 1993. Dream utopias, nightmare realities: Imaging race and culture within the world of Benetton advertising. Third Text 7, no. 22: 65–80. https://doi.org/10.1080/09528829308576402

Barela, M. J. 2003. Executive insights: United colors of Benetton—From sweaters to success: An examination of the triumphs and controversies of a multinational clothing company. Journal of International Marketing 11, no. 4: 113–128. https://doi.org/10.1509/jimk.11.4.113.20152

Benetton facts. 2019. Benetton. Yourdictionary. http://biography.yourdictionary.com/benetton.

Benetton Group. 2018. This spring Benetton will start a revolution. 2018. http://www.benettongroup.com/ media-press/press-releases-and-statements/this-spring-benetton-will-start-a-revolution/.

Berger, A. A. 2010. The objects of affection: Semiotics and consumer culture. New York: Palgrave Macmillan. Borgerson, J. L., Schroeder, J. E., Magnusson, M. E., & Magnusson, F. 2009. Corporate communication, ethics, and operational identity: A case study of Benetton. Business Ethics: A European Review 18, no. 3: 209–223. http://dx.doi.org/10.2139/ssrn.1276387.

Brough, D. 2014, May 14. The story of... the men’s white shirt. The conversation. https://theconversation.com/the-story-of-the-mens-white-shirt-26312.

Cambridge University Press. 2020. Cambridge dictionary. https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/ hold. [Retrieved November 11, 2020].

Case, S. E. 2002. The emperor’s new clothes: The naked body and theories of performance. SubStance 31, no. 2: 186–200. https://doi.org/10.2307/3685485.

Collins. 2020. Collins dictionary. https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/adult. [Retrieved November 17, 2020].

Cuddy, A. J. C., Crotty, S., Chong, J., & Norton, M. I. 2010. Men as cultural ideals: How cultures shape gender stereotypes. Working paper, Harvard Business School. https://www.hbs.edu/faculty/Publication%20 Files/10-097_0b862da9-45e9-40f2-b59d-796f7fc88276.pdf.

Dahl, D. W., Frankenberger, K. D., & Manchanda, R. V. 2003. Does it pay to shock? Reactions to shocking and nonshocking advertising content among university students. Journal of Advertising Research 43, no. 3: 268–280. https://doi.org/10.1017/S0021849903030332.

Danesi, M. 2002. Understanding media semiotics. London: Arnold.

_______. 2004. Messages, signs, and meanings: A basic textbook in semiotics and communication theory. Toronto: Canadian Scholars’ Press Inc.

Daniels, E. 2020. The complete rose color meanings guide [posted May 26]. Proflowers. https://www.proflowers.com/blog/rose-color-meanings#red?ref=organicgglunkwn&prid=pfseogglunkwn.

Davis, L. L. 1984. Clothing and human behavior: A review. Home Economics Research Journal 12, no. 3: 325–339. https://doi.org/10.1177/1077727X8401200308

Dscene. Discover united colors of Benetton spring summer 2018 collection. 2018, March 21. Descene. https://www.designscene.net/2018/03/united-colors-benetton-ss18.html.

Fanon, F. 2008. Black skin, white masks. New York: Grove Press. FTD by Design. 2016. Daisy meaning and symbolism (posted April 13). https://www.ftd.com/blog/share/daisy-meaning-and-symbolism. [Retrieved November 10, 2020].

Ganesan, S. 2002. Benetton group: Unconventional advertising. Global Ceo, [November]: 53–59.

Girling, E. 2004. ‘Looking death in the face’: The Benetton death penalty campaign. Punishment & Society 6, no. 3: 271–287. https://doi.org/10.1177/1462474504043632.

Goffman, E. 1985. Gender advertisements. Macmillan Publishers. Green, Lauren. n.d. Negative racial stereotypes and their effect on attitudes toward African-Americans. Ferris State University. https: //www.ferris.edu/htmls/news/jimcrow/links/essays/vcu.htm.

Hebert, L. 2006. Elements of semiotics. Signo: Theoretical semiotics on the web. http://www.signosemio. com/elements-of-semiotics.asp.

Hubbard, R. C. 1993. Shock advertising: The Benetton case. Studies in Popular Culture 16, no. 1: 39–51. https://www.jstor.org/stable/23413769

Internet looks. 2017. Human differentiation: Evolution of racial characteristics. http://www.internetlooks.com/humandifferentiation.html.

Javed, M. B., & Zeb, H. 2011. Good shock or bad shock: What impact shock advertisements are creating on the mind of viewers. Marketing & Programme Leader International Business: Annual Conference on Innovations in Business & Management, 1–12. The Center for Innovations in Business and Management Practice. https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/2462706/good-shock-or-bad-shock-what-impact- shock-cibmporg.

Jenkins, J. P. 2016. White supremacy [posted November 30]. Encyclopedia Britannica. https://www.britannica. com/topic/white-supremacy.

Kaptan, Y. 2016. Marking differences, consuming identities: Race, sexuality, disease and “global Turkishness” in the United Condoms of Benetton campaign. Journal of Consumer Culture 16, no. 2: 447–466. https:// doi.org/10.1177/1469540514521075.

Kimbarovsky, R. 2020. How to create a unique and memorable brand identity in 2020 [posted January 9]. Crowdspring. https://www.crowdspring.com/blog/brand-identity/#brand-identity-design.

Kinsey, J. 1987. The use of children in advertising and the impact of advertising aimed at children. International Journal of Advertising 6, no. 2: 169–175. https://doi.org/10.1080/02650487.1987.11107013.

Koester, D. 2015. Gender and power: Six links and one big opportunity [posted May 21]. DLP. https://www. dlprog.org/opinions/gender-and-power-six-links-and-one-big-opportunity.

Kraidy, M. M., & Goeddertz, T. 2003. Transnational advertising and international relations: US press discourses on the Benetton ‘We on Death Row’campaign. Media, Culture & Society 25, no. 2: 147–165. https://doi. org/10.1177/01634437030252001.

Kramer, Lindsay. 2019. How to Use Color in Marketing and Advertising. 99designs. https://99designs.com/ blog/tips/colors-marketing-advertising/#:~:text=Why%20colors%20matter%20in%20marketing%20 and%20advertising&text=Colors%20speak%20a%20language%20words,of%20vibrancy%20and%20 well%2Dbeing.

Kress, G., & Van Leeuwen, T. 1996. Reading images: The grammar of visual design. London: Routledge. ______. 2002. Colour as a semiotic mode: Notes for a grammar of colour. Visual Communication 1, no. 3: 343–368. https://doi.org/10.1177/147035720200100306.

Mitakos, A. 2018. Is the world ready for Oliviero Toscani’s return to Benetton? [posted February 23]. GQ Magazine UK. https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/gallery/oliveiro-toscani-benetton.

Ollero, I. 2019. Rose colors and their meanings and symbolism. Rose Festival Kazanlak. https://www.rosefestivalkazanlak.com/rose-colors-meaning/.

Oxford University Press. 2020. Carry. In Oxford learner’s dictionaries. https://www.oxfordlearnersdictionaries.

com/definition/american_english/carry. [Retrieved November 10, 2020]. Pappas, C. 2013. 8 Important characteristics of adult learners [posted May 8]. eLearning industry. https://elearningindustry.com/8-important-characteristics-of-adult-learners.

Parvez, H. 2015. Body language: Scratching the head meaning [posted May 9]. Psych mechanics. https:// www.psychmechanics.com/body-language-scratching-hair/.

Profile. 2019. Benetton Group. http://www.benettongroup.com/the-group/profile/at-a-glance/.

Seppänen, J. 2001. Young people, researchers and Benetton. Nordicom Review 22, no. 1: 85–96. https://doi.org/10.1515/nor-2017-0347.

Sugden, K. 2012. Benetton backlash: Does controversy sell sweaters? Advertising & Society Review 13, no. 1. https://muse.jhu.edu/article/477903.

Tajuddin, F. N. 2018. Cultural and social identity in clothing matters: “Different cultures, different meanings.” European Journal of Behavioral Sciences 1, no. 4: 20–25. https://www.dpublication.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/EJBS-V14_21-25.pdf.

Tian, K. 2017. The influence of cultural orientation on gender role representations: Horizontal-vertical values in cross-cultural advertising. International Journal of Business Anthropology 7, no. 1: 49–84. https://doi.org/10.33423/ijba.v7i1.1108.

Tinic, S. A. 1997. United colors and untied meanings: Benetton and the commodification of social issues. Journal of Communication 47, no. 3: 3–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1460-2466.1997.tb02714.x. Tiwari, P. n.d. Major physical characteristics of racial groups. Geography notes. https://www.geographynotes.com/human-geography/major-physical-characteristics-of-racial-groups/1012.

Visual literacy. n.d. Visual techniques. https://visual-literacy-skills.weebly.com/visual-techniques.html.

Wissinger, E. 2012. Managing the semiotics of skin tone: Race and aesthetic labor in the fashion modeling industry. Economic and Industrial Democracy 33, no. 1: 125–143 https://doi.org/10.1177/0143831X11427591.

Zotos, Y. C., & Tsichla, E. 2014. Female stereotypes in print advertising: A retrospective analysis. Procedia –

Social and Behavioral Sciences 148, 446–454. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sbspro.2014.07.064.

Share

COinS